A crisp, cool dusk settles over the Gambian coast near Farafenni, the last light of the summer day fading into a faint, mysterious hush that wraps around the shore and lapping sea. Gentle dolphin calls drift across the shallow offshore water, their soft, echoing tones layered with the faint, rhythmic croak of frogs right at the water's edge and the faint, steady chirp of crickets in the nearby dune grass. The three sounds weave together in a sparse, unhurried weave, no layer overpowering the nex