Smoke-threaded dusk settles over the reeds of Lake Victoria, just outside Kisumu, where the last of the day’s warmth lingers in the tall savanna grass. Distinct lapwing calls rise above the soft hum of thrush and distant garden bird song, while gentle lake laps against the shore and a faint singing bowl overtone rings slow with each of your breaths. The layered birdsong wraps around you like a soft woolen shuka, no sharp edges, just the soft pull of the wind through grass and the steady rhythm o